And now I´m back with another update. Let´s see... Monday afternoon we bought Julie some socks, and then Monday night we went to Münster´s local brewery and then to a restaurant for an authentic Münsterland dinner, which I´m pleased to say consisted of wienerschnitzel topped with scrambled egg and bacon, served in a skillet. What, I ask, could be a better sign that we´re in a quality region than that?
Tuesday we went to the gym again, where Dr. J shepherded me through an ambitious arm workout that I´m still feeling today, and then we went to the grocery store, which, as is always the case in a new country, was a fascinating cultural experience. Especially the all-chocolate aisle. Then we went to visit Dr. J´s office, which is huge, and met her officemates, who were normal-sized but numerous. They are friendly people, but they are certainly no Gwinn group. Then we went out in driving rain to get a tourbook for our trip to the Netherlands, and then we had a little dinner and met the aforementioned officemates for a rousing game of bowling, American-style. This place was
really authentic. Frighteningly authentic. Disneylandishly authentic. (Oh, and EV, the all-authentic-American music was, at one point, "Wonderwall.") We had a great time, although I must admit that I also played to my authentic low level of bowling ability, and I taught a nice young German woman some bowling theory. She ended up being much better than me, and I think I feel about that much as Darth Vader did.
And yesterday we went Dutch. It was a rollicking good time. First we went to a town that began with an apostrophe, 's something. It had a market and a lovely church and we also went to a frites place, where I had fries with mayonnaise that were really, really, really good. Then we went to the town of Arnhem, which also had a church, but that church closed at 5 and we got there in driving rain and bitter wind at 5:15, so that was a little disappointing. Arnhem has a nice pedestrian area, though, so we walked around there for a while after the rain let up and then had dinner next to some people from Palm Springs. And I know you all will reach your peak of enviousness when I tell you that on the way home, we stopped by the navel of the universe for all of us Big T fans--Coesfeld. I have now seen the outside of Big T´s ancestral home (not the inside, since it was late) and learned what there is to do as a youth in Coesfeld (go to the disco, drink beer, possibly drive around the traffic circle). We also got lost on a farm and took a picture with tremendous flash, probably terrifying a farmer.
And that brings us to today. We had another workout, and then we came back here and made bread and ate döners (gyros, more or less), and then we went to Germany´s only leprosy museum. Robbie´s sort-of-advisor had lent us a tourbook from 1976 that said Münster´s leprosy museum was not to be missed, so Big T had called on Monday and discovered that while the museum was only formally open these days on Sundays from 3 to 5, they also would open by request. He pointed out that his very important American visitors were leaving on Saturday and were desperate to see the leprosy museum, and the nice woman agreed to give us a personal tour in English, although she said she hadn´t spoken it in 30 years. So you can imagine the humorous misunderstandings that we were expecting today, but instead she gave a lovely, perfectly comprehensible tour of the museum and grounds (the museum is on what used to be a leper colony) and it was fascinating. We learned quite a bit and also got to taste leprosy medicine from the Middle Ages (well, a Middle Ages recipe, the medicine itself was fairly new), which was not that bad. I highly, highly recommend this tour, and the guide was great. She had all the German-English leprosy vocabulary written out on a card, which must have taken her quite a while and which she referred to frequently. But if you do come, they'd probably prefer that you do it on a Sunday.
And I´m not sure what´s in store for us tomorrow. I can´t believe that tomorrow´s our last day already, though--I´m going to be sorry to leave. I´ve been trying to sell Dr. J and Big T on a visit to the ´Burgh, though, and that´s something. I promised to take Big T to the country roads of West Virginia, and hopefully that will be incentive enough.